Basement foundation walls come in a variety of different forms each with its own set of possible points of egress. Most basements are poured concrete with the most common problem being a wall crack or pipe penetrations. An epoxy/urethane injection can be used to solve these. However in the case of a CMU or cinder block foundation the cores of the block are hollow so any material injected would disperse throughout the voids long before it had a chance to cure and solidify. Brick and or stone foundations can only be completely sealed with an exterior membrane application.
Solution to foundation wall leaks:
Most individual leaks in a concrete foundation can best be addressed with an interior crack injection however we realize that due to circumstances such as a finished wall an exterior crack repair would be more suitable. When it comes to CMU/cinder block foundations spot repairs are short term solutions at best. The only long term remedy would be either an interior draintile installation complete with a series of weep holes to elevate water pressure in the wall cavities or an exterior tile and membrane seal.
The first step in pouring a foundation wall is to construct a form for the concrete. The tie rod refers to the small metal strap/rod that holds the inner and outer forms together. After the concrete has cured and the forms are pulled these are usually snapped off flush to the wall. Over a period of time these can rust out andallow water to migrate into the basement and this creates the problem.
In most cases these can be repaired from the interior with a simple injection. However they can also be addressed from the exterior. The inspector will advise you as to the best approach.
Water seeping in through a window into the basement is a result of either a nonfunctioning well drain or no drain at all.
Solution to window well leaks:
A new drain can be installed at the exterior tying into the existing sub soil line. If an interior draintile is being installed a new drain can be brought thru the wall and connected directly into the system.
It is generally recognized that a percentage of rain water will naturally enter through the upper facade of the house. (around doors, windows or simply thru porous brick) So through the installation of through wall flashing and a series of weep holes this water is channeled away from the interior of building. This water exits through the horizontal joint between the foundation and the upper structure. When this joint is buried below the soil or is too close to finish grade the water cannot get out and thus is forced inwards. Furthermore any ground water directed towards the building will flow in through this joint. That is the waterproofing problem.
Most obviously the best approach is to lower the grade and pitch it away from the foundation. However this may not always be possible. So in that case a small trench is excavated to a point no less than 10″ below top of foundation. The wall is clean and masonry tuck pointed as necessary. The appropriate membrane is installed and sealed in place. It is important to not than most materials will be adversely affected by the elements so a counter flashing is installed to protect it. Again whenever possible a sub-soil drainage system should be installed to help channel off the excess ground water.
Leaks can occur from wall piping installation. A larger core hole is drilled in the foundation and then the smaller line is feed through. There is a cement cap placed on both the interior and exterior faces of the foundation. Over time cement breaks down and the water flows in around the piping.
Solution to pipe penetration leaks:
The interior patch is removed to expose the void. A series of small plastic ports are placed around the pipe and held in place with a non-shrink waterproof mortar. After the surface patch has dried an epoxy/urethane resin is injected to fill the void. These can also be addressed from the exterior as well. The inspector will advise you as to the best possible approach.
This refers to water up from the joint between the floor slab and the foundation wall (commonly referred to as hydro-static pressure). The cove join is where the floor meets the wall. Heavy rains can raise the ground water and reach the basement floor and seep thru this joint. Injection at this site is not advisable since this would do nothing more than create a damming effect. The water pressure would continue to build up under the slab and force it way up elsewhere. In some cases even cracking of the foundation of the floor could occur.
Solution to cove joint seepage:
Interior or exterior drain tile installation.
Most basements have wall cracks. Usually these are shrinkage cracks a result of the concrete freezing in a cold weather pour or drying out to fast in a warm weather. However, in some cases the soil around the house settles / contracts to a point that the foundation shifts and this can also cause wall cracking problems.
Solution to wall crack leaks:
They can be addressed from the interior with an epoxy / urethane interior crack repair injection. If the foundation is not accessible from the interior then an exterior crack repair method can be utilized.
A typical foundation is poured in three steps. First the footer is poured. This is the base of the foundation wall. Once the footer is solid, but not completely cured, the second step is pouring of the foundation wall directly on top of it. The third and last step the floor slab is poured. Since there is no direct connection between the slab and the foundation wall, the slab floats. This movement can create floor cracking. A properly functioning footer drain will help keep water from rising up out of the floor. Should water begin to rise out of the floor this is a sign of excessive hydro-staic pressure.
Solution to Floor Crack Leaks:
The solution to this type of waterproofing problem is drain tile installation.
A properly working sump pump is the most important part of a footing drain tile system. After the tile channels all the water to the basin it is the function of the sump to pump the water either into the sewer system or out into the yard. Discharge will be determined by city code. We install a complete line of Zoeller Sumps. We offer both pro series 2400 as well as a complete line of the next generation NexPump.
ULB Waterproofing offers a variety of battery backup systems based on your individual needs:
- NexPump, Inc
- Pro Series 2400
Crawl Space Encapsulation/Sealing
To help reclaim that dirty musty crawl space we offer a complete crawl space encapsulation of the existing soil crawl.